What Is a Cutout Edge Length?

When customizing panels, you might require openings such as windows, doors, hatches, or other cutouts. The Cutout Edge Length refers to the total length of all edges for these openings.

• Example: For a window measuring 1000 mm x 1000 mm, the edge length totals 4000 mm (1000 mm per side x 4).
• This is calculated at a fixed rate per meter, as it reflects the additional labor required for precise cutting.

How to Add a Cutout Edge Length?

1. Add a panel and enter its dimensions (length and width) in millimeters.
2. Select the panel type from the dropdown menu.
3. If cutouts are needed, input the total edge length of all openings in the Cutout Edge Length field.

Why Is This Information Important?

The Cutout Edge Length helps us provide a precise cost breakdown by including the labor for any necessary cuts. This ensures you know exactly what you’re paying for and avoids unexpected costs later.

How to Use the Caravan Composite Panel Price Calculator

• Add one or more panels.
• Specify the dimensions and panel type for each one.
• If required, add the edge lengths for cutouts.
• View the total price in a clear table format, including all customization costs such as cutouts.

The calculator updates automatically, giving you a transparent and hassle-free way to estimate the cost of your caravan panel project.

Why Choose Us for Your Caravan Panels?

We’re committed to helping you complete your DIY caravan project with the highest quality materials and services. Whether you’re building from scratch or upgrading your setup, our composite panels offer durability, performance, and customization to fit your exact needs.

Here our full range: click here

Try the Caravan Composite Panel Price Calculator Today!

Still have questions? Feel free to reach out – we’re happy to assist and ensure your caravan project is a success.

The post Caravan Composite Panel Price Calculator appeared first on DIY Caravans.

What process is used to manufacture the panels from supplier A?

The skins are hand laid with chopped strand mat and biax fabric. Liquid gel-coat is used and the process of vacuum infusion draws the polyester resin through the DIAB perforated core so the skins are physically attached to each other every 20mm.

What size of panel can be made?

Panels up to 3.0m wide and up to 10.0 m long can be manufactured with Panel Kit A

Is there any cnc cutting that cannot be done?

If you have an aluminium insertion in the panel we are not able to cut the aluminium and small cut-outs such as handles have tight radius corners which are also not possible. These cuts would need to be completed by the customer.

Can you cut corners with no or little radius?

There will be a minimum of a 5mm radius with ALL corners that are cut with the cnc machine – see next question.

What size bit does the cnc machine operate with?

We use a 10 mm bit so for locker door cut-outs there will be a minimum of 10 mm gap between the cut-out and the locker door insert panel.

Can the panel be cut right along the side of an insertion?

Where you have an insertion in the composite panel design such as a length of aluminium or a pultrusion, you need to leave a minimum of 2-4 mm of panel between the insertion and any cut-out. This is to avoid damage to the cnc bit and the manufacturer will move the insertion location accordingly if your drawing does not show this.

What CAD files does the Manufacturer use?

If you are doing your detailed panel drawings on CAD and would like the Manufacturer to use your files for the production of the panels, we can do this if you can provide your CAD files in the STEP format together with a 3D model if it’s possible. For quoting purposes we still need the files in a pdf format.

Can you cut a rebate for a locker door insert panel?

Some locker door frames require a rebated profile (say 20 x 20) to be cut in the panel rather than a simple cut all the way thru’ the panel. Yes, this can be done – if marked clearly on the drawings and a drawing of the rebate dimensions are included.

Where are the Composite Panels made?

Our Panel A Suppliers are located in SE Queensland one hour from Brisbane.

Does DIY Caravans ship composite panels?

Composite panels are not suitable for general freight since they are often large and need to be handled with care. DIY customers collect their panel kits from the chosen Manufacturer when they are ready for despatch. Some clients use the chassis or truck body they are going to be assembled on, others hire a trailer or light truck. Every time the panels arrive at their destination damage free and in a cost-effective manner. Click here for more info

Is the cnc cutting of the panels included in the cost?

The cnc cutting of the perimeter of the panel is included in the cost of the panel. If you require further cnc cutting of the panel – eg window and door cut-outs – this will normally be priced as a separate item called ‘Profile cutting’ and is calculated per linear metre.

What is the difference between using Aluminium or the fibreglass pultrusion as Insertions in the composite panels?

Fibreglass pultrusions are generally more expensive to buy and install – and have the benefit of not transmitting heat (or cold). Aluminium insertions can act as a cold bridge and cause condensation on the inside of the van if ventilation is poor though this rarely occurs.

Fibreglass is likely to be stronger than aluminium and both products act as a conduit for running cables through the composite panel. Aluminium will provide better screw purchase though you can use special ‘banana’ rivets if you need to attach items into a pultrusion.

In Kit A pultrusions are available as 50x25mm  and aluminium insertions used are generally 40x25x3mm  to 50x25x3mm. In your drawings please specify clearly which insertion you require.

What is the lead time for Composite Panel Kit A to be manufactured?

As a made-to-order item there is a lead time for the manufacture of Panel Kit A of approx. 8 weeks depending on supplier orders. When you receive a quote it will contain the current lead time if you go ahead with the purchase.

I want a rolled roof with Panel A – what radius can I use?

To avoid a fractures in the outer skin we would not recommend you try to roll the panel tighter than a radius of R400-R500. More info on rolled roof designs here

Can the Supplier specify and cut the kerfing slots for the rolled roof?

Yes they can and this will be priced separately. Some customers choose to do this at home and once the panel has kerfing slots extra care needs to be taken when handling the panel. More info on rolled roof panels here.

To ensure consistency and proper alignment, the length of the roof panel will be projected from the side wall panels. The location of the kerf cuts for the roof panel will mirror the radius sections of the wall panels with an additional 50mm added in the front of the roof panel which the customer can cut off as required. Few projects go together perfectly as planned and we do not want the roof panel to be short.

The post DIY Guide – Designing for Composite Panel Kit A appeared first on DIY Caravans.

Step 1 – Select your Panel Kit supplier – Kit A, Kit B or Kit C based on the type of panel you require and/or the location for convenience

• Each manufacturer is based in a different State
  • Kit A is made in SE Queensland – 1 hour from Brisbane
  • Kit B is made in Melbourne, Victoria
  • Kit C is made in Northern NSW

• Each Panel Kit uses a different set of components and manufacturing process
  • Kit A uses perforated pvc cores with hand laid skins and vacuum bag tecnique
  • Kit B uses Extruded polystyrene cores with Brianza GRP skins and the Hot Melt process
  • Kit C uses Extruded polystyrene cores with Lamilux skins and the vacuum bag technique

• Each Panel Kit has a different price structure and its own set of options available for your panels. See each product page for details.
• Lead times vary typically from 6-8 weeks depending on your choice
• For a guide price simply multiply the per m2 price on the product page by the total m2 of your panel kit. If you want insertions and profile cutting these will be extra
• Your choice of manufacturer may be determined by the location as much as the type of panel since DIY customers tend to collect their panel kit as detailed here

Step 2 – Design your Composite Panel Kit – click for more info

• You will need to choose all the details that will define your unique composite panel kit – such as the
  • Number of panels,
  • Size and shape of each panel,
  • Any panel Insertions,
  • Profile Cutting and
  • Gel Coat options

• Your design will also need to include how you propose to join the composite panels together
• If you choose to use DIY Panel Joiners this article will help with calculating panel dimensions

Step 3 – Consider in more detail what to include in my Composite Panel Kit

• Each customer’s ideas are different and whilst we recommend keeping your panel kit as simple as possible, there are ways of enhancing the shape of your project, providing cable ducting to keys areas and adding strength where you propose to cut a large hole in a composite panel or put an AC unit on the roof.

Step 4 – Click here to Request a Quote for ‘My Composite Panel kit’

• Now that you have worked out the details, submit your request using the contact form to get the quickest response and avoid any confusion:
  • Complete the ‘Panel Summary Table’
  • Drawings for each panel should be as a pdf file

Customers who buy composite panel kits or Cruisemaster Suspension Kits are eligible for significant VIP discounts off web pricing of other products.

The post How to buy a DIY Composite Panel Kit appeared first on DIY Caravans.

It should be read in conjunction with a previous article which helps you specify the details of your panel kit ‘How to design my Composite Panel Kit’ so that you can submit your design to the office for a quote

In my panel design is there a limit to the number of cut-outs and location of cut-outs?

There are no golden rules here and no guarantee that what works for one project will work for another but here are a few pointers.

As a guide any cut-out closer than 200 mm to the edge of the panel will need some consideration and large openings like food van hatch windows do need insertions around the apertures to support the panel.

The solution also depends on other factors such as:

• What is your method of joining the panels together? The Aluminium DIY panel joiners add significant strength to the panel edges if you have cut-outs close to the panel edge
• What is the application – Off-Road vehicles will get more rugged treatment than an on-road caravan
• What skin thickness are you selecting on your panels – 2mm skins are stronger than 1.6mm skins
• How feasible is it? If you want a locker door at floor level then you have little choice, the same goes for the entrance door cut-out

Our advice is to design your panel drawings to the best of your knowledge and the panel supplier will usually go through them with you and suggest any changes or improvements that may be possible.

How do I run wiring and plumbing inside the Composite Panels?

As a general guide we would recommend

• you do not run plumbing inside any panels
• you only use insertions in the panels where they are absolutely necessary
• you can use insertions or a slot cut in the core for electric cables.

Plumbing in the form of John Guest 12mm piping is usually run underneath the floor along the inside of the chassis rails. Using elbows or T’s the pipe can be installed through the floor directly below the appliance that it is servicing. There is usually no need to go inside the panels.

In your wiring plan consider ways to avoid wiring inside the panels. Many switches can be installed at the end or side of overhead cabinets etc so the cables run in trunking at the back of the cabinet are are readily accessible at all times. Cables can also run in trunking down the back or wardrobes, fridge cabinets etc to get to the floor level so they are not visible. You may want to take them through the floor just inside the chassis rail to keep it all neat underneath.

If you need to get a cable say 200 mm through the core from the edge of the panel eg to a switch or light then note that with care you can hole-saw the inner skin off at the location and then use a slightly heated bar or rod to form a round channel to the hole-saw cut from the edge.

Where necessary the larger insertions such as Pultusions or Aluminium RHS tend to be used where extra strength is required or you are running 240 volt cables – such as the AC unit on the caravan roof.

The smaller insertions are generally used for 12 volt wiring only.

The simpler the panel design the more you can make those decisions later and the cheaper the panel.

Is the cnc cutting of the panels included in the cost?

All composite panels are made to order using core material and fibreglass skins that are larger than your panel sizes. The cutting of the perimeter of the panel is included in the cost of the panel.

If you require further cnc cutting of the panel – eg window and door cut-outs – this will normally be priced as a separate item called ‘Profile cutting’ and is calculated per metre. Where possible we will try and also include this in the cost of the panels.

What do you mean by an Insertion?

When we refer to a panel insertion we are referring to a product that is between the 2 skins of the composite panel. It may be a conduit for cables or a product for adding strength or improving screw purchase. The panel core has to be cut to allow for the insertion and it has to be installed as part of the manufacturing process. The choice of insertions will depend on the type of Panel Kit you select. Click here for more info on Panel Insertions.

What is the difference between using Aluminium or the fibreglass pultrusion as Insertions in the composite panels?

Fibreglass pultrusions are generally more expensive to buy and install – and have the benefit of not transmitting heat (or cold). With aluminium insertions it can act as a cold bridge and cause slight condensation on the inside of the van if the ventilation is poor.

Fibreglass is likely to be stronger than aluminium and both products act as a conduit for running cables through the composite panel. Aluminium will provide better screw purchase though you can use special ‘banana’ rivets if you need to attach items into a pultrusion.

Aluminium inserts cannot be installed using the Hot-Melt process as used in the production of Panel Kit B . It requires the vacuum bagging technique and can be installed in Panel Kits A and C.

Pultrusions are available as either 50x25mm or 38x25mm (depending on supplier) whereas Alumiuium is available in a larger range of sizes from 25x25mm  to 50 x 25mm.

Do you need pultrusions for attaching an awning? I intend to attach an awning similar to the Dometic PerfectWall which is fastened to the caravan at the top.

If you are using the aluminium DIY joiner system to join the composite panels together, there will be one length along the top of the wall panel and you can attach the awning to this joiner. If your awning has legs the base of the legs can also be attached to the floor joiner running along the bottom of the side wall panel.

If you are using another method to join the panels together, then we suggest you will need panel insertions at the attachment points strong enough to support the extended awning.

How do you join panels at an angle other than 90 degrees?

Many projects involve panels being joined at different angles – for example where the vertical front joins a panel at an angle or where you have a rake in the rear wall. If you are using DIY Panel Joiners to join the other panels you will need to mitre carefully the aluminium panel joiner to the angle required. The process below can be used to trim the join between the panels for most angles.

1. Firstly ensure the panels are cut to the right size which is the longer dimension. Now you will need to cut the inside skin and mitre the ends so they fit reasonably tight along the edge of the join – both on the inside and outside skins. Always try a sample to check how far in to cut the inside skin – and then using a sharp knife you will be able to cut the mitre to the correct angle.

2. Cut a strip of 2mm aluminium say 70-80 mm wide off a 2400 long sheet and fold it along the centre line to the same angle as your panel join.

3. Cut the length as required and then powder coat the folded aluminium strips the same colour as the panels – usually Pearl White.

4. Using construction adhesive such as Fixtech attach one length of folded aluminium to the inside skins and one length to the outside skins. Tape or prop to hold in place overnight – no need for screws etc but ensure the adhesive has good coverage and forms a watertight seal on the outside. Finally wipe excess glue off with white spirit – no need for sealant.

How do I cut the kerfing slots for rolling the panel round a radius?

Some customers choose to cut the kerfing slots on the inside of the roof panel when they get it home to avoid the risk of damaging this largest panel in transit and handling. The following steps are a guide how to do this.

1. Mark the area of the panel on the inside skin where the slots are to be cut. The panel will clearly need to be upside down for this process. It is a good idea to mark this area say 20-30mm past the edge of the radius section to allow the roof panel to ‘bed in’ well on the sidewall panels when you lower it down.
2. The ideal saw to use is one with a guide and a vacuum facility – see image below. Appropriate PPE will also need to be worn. The blade should be a good quality aluminium blade with a width of approx 3mm.
3. As a guide we would only cut the slots to a depth of 50-60% of the panel thickness. This leaves a good depth of the core intact to support the external skin. So for a 29mm panel try a depth of 15-17mm for a start.
4. Always do a test on a waste section of panel first before cutting the roof panel.
5. The spacing between your cuts will depend on the radius to which you intend to roll the roof. Again as a guide rolling a 500mm radius would work out approx 12-15mm between slots. A trial on a waste panel strip will confirm what the slot spacing will be – the goal is that the inside skin does not quite touch the adjacent cut strip. A tighter radius will require the slots to be closer together.

Once the slots have been cut you will need to be careful how you rotate the panel and handle it prior to lowering it on to the sidewalls. Try to keep the panel straight at all times (perhaps with a team of 6 people and some timber supports) and do not let the external skin bend the wrong way as this may cause damage to the external skin.

How tight can I roll a composite panel to create a curve?

Rolling a composite panel needs to be done with care to avoid the external skin being damaged. If it is rolled too tight fractures will appear in the external gel-coat layer.

Once the inside skin has been cut, take extreme care handling the panel to avoid damage to the external skin. For this reason we recommend customers cut the slots just before the panel is installed at home to minimise handling – see blog above this. If you get the kerfing – cutting the slots – done at the Manufacturer’s works consider strapping the panel to another panel to keep it straight.

How tight you roll the panel depends on which skins have been used in the composite panel. Always do a test by rolling a cut-out such as the window or entrance door and see at what point the external skin cracks.

As a guide- with 1.6 mm skins some customers roll the roof panel around a radius of 300mm. We would not recommend any tighter than this. For 2.0 mm skins customers have successfully rolled 400mm radius and for hand-laid skins (Panel Kit A) we recommend no tighter than 500 mm radius.

How do I cut the Composite Panel?

Composite panels can be cut using a jig saw or circular saw with a fine aluminium blade – ideally with a vacuum facility. Take care not to damage the gel coat finish.

All appropriate personal safety equipment should be worn when working with composite panels.

Do I need to prepare the panel before applying adhesive?

All surfaces to be applied with construction adhesive should be sanded or ground first to ensure a proper bond. And wiped clean to remove the dust.

More info can be found here

Consult the adhesive’s Technical Sheet and always do a test sample first – you should not be able to pull the items apart.

The post What to include in my Composite Panel Kit appeared first on DIY Caravans.

DIY Caravans has specialist suppliers of Composite Panel kits in Queensland, NSW, Victoria and WA giving you a range of choices in the ways panels are manufactured, the price and location.

1. Choice – When it comes to Composite Panels we supply a range of different types of Panel so you can choose which one suits your project best. Click here to read about the different Types of panel A, B and C that we can offer.
2. Price – our customers can take advantage of the huge buying power of DIY Caravans and our web-based business model to ensure that you get an unbeatable deal!
3. Quality – All our Panel manufacturers use only high quality European components and manufacture the panels at their factory in Australia. They also supply most of the high end Caravan manufacturers in the industry.
4. Warranty – Our composite panels are manufactured by genuine Australian businesses who will stand by the product with a genuine warranty.
5. Sample kit – let us know which specific composite panel and panel joiner products you are interested in and we can post a sample kit to you so you can see exactly what they are.
6. The Design detail – all Composite Panels are made to order and each one needs to be designed so it is right for your specific application. This involves
   • the exact size
   • the choice and locations of any insertions to be put inside the panel
   • details of any profile cnc cutting – eg for doors and windows
   • Click here to see the details DIY needs to be able to provide a quote for your panel kit
7. Experience – DIY Caravans has many years experience in RV manufacturing and has worked with our Panel suppliers to evolve the range of products available
8. Convenience – Composite Panel kits are usually large and cumbersome and need to be handled carefully. We encourage our customers to collect their panel kit from the factory when it is ready – allowing you to meet the business that made it and making sure you get it home in perfect condition
9. One-stop-shop Discount – DIY Caravans supplies parts and components from all major suppliers in Australia. When you purchase a Panel Kit from DIY Caravans enjoy an additional discount off web pricing on other orders over $1000. DIY Caravans will not be beaten on price.

The post Why DIY Caravans is the best place to buy your Composite Panel kit. appeared first on DIY Caravans.

Each Panel Kit type varies in price, supplier location and performance characteristics so the key is to find the best kit to suit your project and your budget.

For more info on DIY Composite Panel kit A click here

For more info on DIY Composite Panel kit B click here

For more info on DIY Composite Panel kit C click here

Your Project considerations

Choosing your Panel Kit will depend on a number of factors:

• Your Project – how extreme ‘off-road’ is it? The unique design of panels in Panel Kit A makes them ideal for extreme situations
• Your budget – What are you expecting to spend? Panel Kits B and C offer excellent value for money
• Your location – panel suppliers are located in Qld, NSW, Vic and WA – some panels can be shipped while many customers prefer to collect the completed Kit direct from the Manufacturer when it is ready

For a Guide Price for your Kit – simply calculate the m2 in your Panel Kit by adding the area of all the panels together (in m2) and multiply it by the m2 price detailed above.

Your Individual Panel considerations

Once you have selected a panel kit type we can focus on the detail of each individual panel. Each panel is made to order. DIY supplies anything from simple panels to complex panel kits with multiple panel insertions and cnc profile cutting in each panel.

Key Items to consider for each panel:

1. Purpose of panel eg Wall, Roof, Floor etc
2. Dimensions – length (mm) and width (mm) – this will be affected by which method you choose to join the panels together – click here for more info
3. Thickness of panel – 29mm panels (which use a 25mm core) are most popular. Other thicknesses are available.
4. Do you require insertions placing within the panel for Extra Support (eg installing an AC on the roof or for screw purchase attaching items to the panel) or Conduit for access to wiring?
5. Skin thickness and colour – gloss white is standard. Each supplier has different additional options
6. Do you require cnc cutting within the panel – the perimeter cnc cutting is included in the price
7. Floor panel – if required – what is the max. spacing between cross members supporting the floor?

A table or list is a great way to summarise this info as below:

Each panel is made to order and the options available will vary depending on which Panel Kit you prefer.

When you know what you require in a Panel Kit , click here for details of ‘How to request a Quote for ‘my Composite Panel Kit’

The post How to estimate the cost of ‘My Composite Panel Kit’ appeared first on DIY Caravans.

This gives customers a genuine choice and allows DIY Caravans to explain the pros and cons of each product in an impartial way based on our years of experience.

All our Composite Panel manufacturers have a number of key criteria in common:

• They are quality Australian businesses building an Australian product
• They are customer focused with great service and warranty
• Components are from global leading European suppliers
• Composite panels are made to order with lead times from 4-8 weeks
• Panels can be made up to at least 10m long and 2.5m wide
• Panel can be cut with the latest cnc machines

However, each of our suppliers also offers a range of products that have

• different strength and performance characteristics,
• different panel options eg colour,
• different prices and
• they are located from Victoria to Queensland.  

These product ranges are detailed on the website as

• Composite Panel Kit A
• Composite Panel Kit B and
• Composite Panel Kit C (click on each of these links for more info)

Our role at DIY Caravans is guide you and quote for the Composite Panel Kit that most closely resembles what you want.

Factors to take into account in selecting your type of Composite Panel may include:

1. Price – this varies significantly depending on the way it is manufactured and the complexity of the panel design
2. Location – some customers are able to travel interstate to collect their panel kit and some panel kits can be shipped to you. Where you live may affect your choice of panel kit
3. Performance characteristics – each panel kit is manufactured using different components and different methods of production. Whilst our suppliers only use high quality European sourced components in the panels, the kits do enjoy a range of strength and performance characteristics so you can select the composite panels best suited to your application.
4. Range of options – you may want to have insertions inside the panels for screw retention or running a 12v cable. Or want to add strength each side of a hole for a roof-mounted AC unit. Or a choice of the thickness or colour of the skins. All our manufacturing partners offer a range of options to help satisfy these requirements.

Once you have chosen your panel kit supplier , now it is time to design each individual panel for a quote request

The post How to choose which DIY Composite Panel kit is best for me? appeared first on DIY Caravans.

In addition, DIY can offer customers a choice of several different composite panel kits from high quality Australian companies from Victoria to Queensland.

The benefits to the DIY builder are huge:

1. It’s easy.
   •  Simply design your panel kit to fit neatly on your chassis or frame… and use adhesive to attach the parts to each other
2. It’s quick.
   • No more timber or aluminium frames and cladding the exterior and the interior with sheeting that leaks. Each composite panel is the whole wall – completely finished
3. It’s strong.
   • Composite panels are phenomenally strong compared to other materials
   • Use the DIY Panel Joiner system to create a monocoque structure of unbelievable strength
4. It’s light.
   • At approx. 7kgs per m2 your van will weigh significantly less – with easier towing and saving you fuel every time
5. Excellent thermal efficiency.
   • In winter it will keep you warm and in summer it will keep you cool. Saving energy and improving your comfort levels
   • And the same applies to sound insulation too
6. No more leaks.
   • Attaching panels to each other is easy and it will NOT leak
7. No more rots and decay
   • Composite Panel materials and floor products are impervious to water so they will not decay
   • Longer lifespan and will hold its value much better
8. No more hail damage
   • Excellent impact resistance of all wall and roof panels
9. Better visual appearance
   • High gloss smooth wall finishes – for a very sleek look
   • Reduced fading due to UV light
   • Excellent scratch resistance
   • Easy to clean

Don’t delay. Contact DIY Caravans to price a Composite Panel kit for your project.

The post What are the benefits of using DIY composite panels? appeared first on DIY Caravans.

• Reduced weight
• Increased strength
• Faster construction
• Better insulation and thermal conductivity
• Reduced water ingress issues

A sandwich panel consists of 3 key components:

1. A skin on each side
2. A core in the centre
3. A form of adhesive to join the above parts together

To understand why DIY composite panel A with a PVC core are the leading panels in the industry, we need to consider each of the above components in turn

1.The Skin

For this type of composite panel the ‘skins’ are hand-laid. The outside surface of the skin is a marine grade Gelcoat layer – available in gloss white – that is applied to the ‘table’ as a liquid. It is a pure product and does not contain fillers which means it will maintain its surface properties much better over the years – just take a look in a marina how well the yachts look!

Under the gelcoat is a layer of chopped strand mat (csm) – chopped strands of glass fibre laid randomly in the form of a mat. The thickness and specification of the csm will depend on the application of the panel in question.

A resin is used to bond the components together and fill the layer of chopped strand mat.

2.The Core

As the main component the core of a sandwich panel will largely determine it’s properties. Core types used in the industry include:

• Polystyrene – both Expanded (EPS) and Extruded (XPS)
• Polyurethane (PUR)
• Divinycell (PVC)

DIY composite panel A utilises a marine grade PVC perforated core which allows the sandwich panel to exhibit some exceptional characteristics in terms of:

Mechanical Properties

• The superior cores used have holes every 20mm (see image). During the process called vacuum infusion this network of holes allows the resin through the core so that it physically joins the skin on one side to the other skin every 20mm of the whole panel. Hence the panels are amongst the lightest in the industry at 7 kgs per m2 (approx) – since the superior cores allows the use of the same light laminate (instead of having to use a thicker (heavier) laminate with larger panel.
• Each panel is designed specifically for its application in the RV industry. Drawing on decades of experience in the marine industry each panel type has its unique design and has a proven track record in RVs over many years.
• Use of Polyester Resin is much stronger then conventional polymer adhesives used with other core types and is more stable at higher temperatures.
• As a result the panels enjoy superior compressive strength, shear strength and tensile strength characteristics
  Our tests reveal these panels can withstand substantially higher forces without suffering any defects

• The Panels also display excellent elongation ability ie torsion and twist
  An important characteristic for a product attached to a chassis that will be twisting and turning every day.

FST and High Temperature Properties

• FST stands for Fire Smoke and Toxicity testing – since we are likely to sleep inside our van the FST performance is worth considering. The PVC cores are not only fire retardant – they are fire extinguishing – they simply will not support fire.
• Divinycell PVC cores have a heat distortion temperature of 125 degrees C – our oven test showed some interesting results with other cores. You can relax in the knowledge there will not be any risk of delamination with Composite panels with a PVC core!

Thermal Properties

• The thermal conductivity will tell you how well a material will transmit thermal energy at a given temperature (in W/mK). Since it is the air that provides the ‘insulation’ and all the cores trap air – the thermal conductivity of most cores are very similiar. PVC has a value of 0.028 W/mK. With a DIY composite panel kit A you will not only be more comfortable in Australia’s extreme temperatures, but you will also save energy cooling or heating your ‘home away from home’.

Water vapour permeability

• The issue of water ingress in the caravan industry is huge. A sandwich panel that has ‘sucked up’ moisture vapour will provide poorer insulation values and be much heavier in weight.
• Whilst most panels are impervious to water when they are new, many cores will lose this quality and absorb water over time.
• PVC cores used by DIY Caravans have water vapour permeability values up to 10 times lower than some other cores and they will maintain this quality for many years.

3.The Form of adhesive

DIY composite panels with a PVC core are able to use a marine grade Polyester Resin to ‘bond’ the skins together instead of using a contact adhesive.

• During a process called ‘vacuum infusion’ the resin flows through the perforated core to physically join the skins together every 20mm. This contributes to the excellent physical properties.
• Alternative panel types are not able to use resin but use construction type adhesives which are less consistent at high temperatures. DIY has tested it composite panels with a PVC core in ovens at up to 98 degrees – with no detrimental effect.

In summary, both the materials used and the method of construction contribute to the superior properties of the DIY composite panels with the pvc core.

The post What is so special about DIY Composite Panel A with a perforated pvc core? appeared first on DIY Caravans.

Remember to follow these steps required in the preparation of each panel here

Make sure you follow the appropriate Workplace Health and Safety guidelines at all times.

Below is the process for installing panels for a typical DIY Caravan build:

1. LHS wall

a. Attach Floor joiners only to the LHS wall.

• these will be attached to the chassis
• panel joiners may be mitred or trimmed for wheel arch location

b. Cut hole in LHS wall and install the entrance door (if applicable) while the composite panel is horizontal and supported on tressles.

• easier to clamp door in place
• can make sure door clearances will allow it to operate smoothly when vertical

c. Once the LHS wall panel has been lifted in place and secured to the chassis, also secure the wall vertically to a frame.

• frame may be a temporary timber frame or a steel frame depending on design and model.

2. RHS wall

a. Attach Floor joiners only to the RHS wall

• these will be attached to the chassis
• panel joiners may be mitred or trimmed for wheel arch location

b. Once the RHS wall panel has been lifted in place and secured to the chassis, also secure the wall vertically to a frame.

• frame may be a temporary timber frame or a steel frame depending on design and model.

3. Floor panel

a.The floor panel does not have any joiners attached to it.

b.Floor panel may need trimming round wheel arches

• panel should have 3 mm gap next to both wall panels so easy to slide in from the rear

b. All chassis cross members, chassis rails and out-riggers to receive adhesive should be on same level.

• Apply adhesive to all surfaces
• Carry floor in before lowering it to the chassis

DIY Tip – Ensure adhesive is not applied to front and rear chassis cross members – floor joiner will slot in here when front and rear walls are installed – slide a 3mm spacer in once floor is in place.

c. Once in place use scaffold planks or similiar to cover the floor panel:

• spread the load evenly
• load with weights
• and avoid walking directly on floor panel as this will push adhesive out of the joins.

4. Roof panel

a.  If your roof panel has insertions such as pultrusions or trunking for wiring it will need preparing first.

• Lay the panel such that the A side is downside (on the tressles).
• Cut holes and prepare the roof panel for AC unit, roof vents etc if applicable.
• For wiring required for ceiling lights, vents and / or Air Conditioner units install the correct wiring inside the trunking with 30cm hanging out.
• Run each length of wiring along the edge of panel (you will need to rout out small 1cm wide channel) and then back through a ‘roof entry point’ for that appliance.
• Each wire may have a different roof entry point (may be 50 – 100 mm inside the panel edge) depending on which cabinet or location you want it to enter the van. See image with example.
• Along the edge of the panel secure the wiring in the slot with masking tape so it does not get in the way when installing roof panel joiner.

DIY Tip – Take care to be sure which side of panel is the roof and which is the ceiling when cutting hatch holes – mark with a white board marker.

b. Attach roof joiners to roof ensuring they are correct way round to fit over the walls. Also ensure that they are in correct location for the rear wall panel joiner to ‘butt’ up to.

c. Once panel joiners have been installed the roof panel will be relatively rigid and can be carefully installed with a lifting machine such as a forklift. Supports such as plasterboard lifters may be required to support the roof while the forklift tines are removed. Plaster board lifters also allow you to lower the roof carefully under control.
Alternatively a hoist in the roof is more suitable for larger panels.

DIY Tip – Once the roof is in place ensure the rear (and front) end is perfectly square – for the rear (and front) wall to be installed. If necessary secure with props.

5. Front wall

a. Whether the front wall is a separate panel or is part of the roof panel and rolled down, the panel joiners should be attached to the front panel such that as it is lowered in place, the panel joiner slides over the LHS and RHS wall panels in the same way as occurred on the roof.

b. Install a length of 10mm spacer around the ‘radius’ arcs between the panel joiners.

c. At the base of the front panel, the floor joiner should be attached such that it slides between (with adhesive) the front chassis cross member and the floor panel as the front is installed.

DIY Tip – It is better to cut the lower edge of the front wall 5mm short than have it ‘pushing off’ the curved panel when you install it.

d. DIY rolled roof trim kits are available to complete the front panel installation.

6. Rear wall

DIY Tip – Ensure all large items such as the walk in shower cubicle are inside before installing the rear wall.

a.Preparing the rear wall is different to all other panels. For other panels we did a dry fit and then installed the panel joiners the day before installing the wall so they could not move when we installed the wall.

b. For the rear wall prepare the panel joiners for all 4 sides. Note the 2 vertical panel joiners should go to the very top and bottom of the shell for a neat finish. Corner caps are available to seal and finish the top off.

c. Install any 12 volt wiring required for the tail lights such that one end is at the light location and the other end is accessible at the bottom of the panel between the chassis rails.

d. Finally install all 4 panel joiners to the rear wall and install the wall to the van while it the adhesive is still wet. This way the panel and joiners can move slightly to fit the aperture you have. Take care to carry the wall from the bottom as the side joiners will move.

DIY Tip – Put timber props under the vertical joiners to avoid them ‘slipping’ down.

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